Peacock for Breakfast

We have a tradition in our household that calls for the adults (that’s us) to bugger off on the birthdays off the offspring (that’s Harrison in this case) and leave them a cider-stocked house to enjoy with their friends and the cat. This has only been since the first 18^th, I hasten to add - we were very much present at birthdays 1 to 17. It’s great, especially this year as we spent his actual 21^st with him, before setting off for our latest three-day adventure!

Aside from a hiccup at the very last moment with the sat nav, our journey was pretty uneventful. The farm was satisfactorily off the beaten track, off the grid actually, giving us no mobile signal thus no communication. That, along with the sight of Pippin the Gypsy Caravan through the part opened gate to the orchard, filled my heart and melted away the stresses of my hectic life. I mean, hell, just look at that…

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We were welcomed most heartily by Dothie, Will’s mum, who was in the middle of preparing our ‘welcome hamper’ and leaving us kindling for the Queenie stove. Had we arrived at the proper time (4pm) this would’ve all been ready, but it did give us the chance to talk through all the bits we needed to know. The most important being how to heat the water for the shower, an innovative piece of kit that would’ve impressed my dad no end! Nothing innovative about the hot tub mind – it’s a tub, encased in cedar, that’s hot.

Steampunk Wet Room

Water Pump & Cedar Hot Tub

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The Roma lifestyle has always played an intrinsic part of my psyche. This stems from my birth on a gypsy camp I suppose, though having my hands ritualistically crossed with silver florins by one of the oldest Romany families in the country may have left a spiritual mark too. I’d like to think that old Eli was looking down on me, nodding his weatherworn face and winking a twinkly eye in approval. I hope my skills with the fire and Queenie stove didn’t disappoint. I definitely nailed ‘getting the bed out’!

"Grab both handles & gently wriggle the bed out until it drops into place..."

Though I left Nige to sort out the bedding…  

…Whilst I tackled the shower. I went for a cold one in the end as I really had no success lighting the fire. Anyway, it was an extremely hot day.

"Use paper & kindling, add wood, heat up to 35˚c & turn tap 1 full turn"

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Has anyone ever been to Totnes? No, me neither, though I can’t think why! What a beautiful town with some bizarre old houses and even more bizarre people (and I’m from Bath!). We got there early evening, looking for a place to eat, but despite being famished, we took our time, looking into shop windows, making a mental note of ones to visit the next day. Then we stumbled upon The Wild Fig Deli. A very unassuming little place, not massive on atmosphere but we were encouraged by the great Trip Advisor rating and the smiling face of the guy inside. A very good job too, as the tapas were excellent and the smiley man was an utter delight. If you find yourself in Totnes, do please seek out this little pocket of friendliness, you will not be disappointed. 

Totnes East Gate by Noel Hefele

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Back at Pippin and almost immediately into the hot tub. We are hot tub virgins no more! So taken were we, that before long we were discussing where we could fit one in our garden.  (There’s a perfect spot at the top, by the way). Our first Roma evening spent under the stars, with hot bubbles, red wine and juvenile giggles.

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We arose the next morning bright and early. We weren’t being virtuous, just desperate for a wee and once out of the bed we were reluctant to clamber back in. Anyway, the 7am start meant we could start the breakfast and coffee pronto and so eat by a decent time! I kid you not, the Queenie stove was in no hurry to heat up the coffee pot and Nigel’s open fire cooking skills were a bit amateur to say the least.

This gypsy needs coffee!

And this one needs bacon & eggs!

Even the cat, Patchy, got fed up waiting for the bacon and buggered off. I loved the Queenie stove though and could imagine that on a cold day it’s warmth a true welcome to the little wagon. But in this heat I wasn’t keen to keep it alight any longer than I needed to. Nigel, on the other hand, was in fire making mode and took himself over to the shower. I left him to it, choosing instead to roam around the farm. Dothie was feeding the hens so I joined her. We nattered on like old friends, talking about ducks, chickens, foxes, badgers and then dogs. She gave me 2 more eggs and told me of Totnes Market. That’s part of our day sorted then, I thought. And it was. So after his shower, Nige drove us back to Totnes where we wiled away an hour or more rummaging through the vintage style market and visiting the shops we had earmarked the evening before. I was in my element! We did visit other places; Salcombe (briefly) and Kingsbridge but these were accidental – Nige was actually trying to find Bigbury. We shall save that particular jaunt for another holiday.

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Back at Pippin and the shower was still hot! The peahens visited too, with all their chicks. Patchy really doesn’t like them though and once she caught sight of them through the tall grass, she bounced off down the lane. I thought they were very regal, like princesses parading their children through the court. Jane paid us a visit, asked how we were getting on and told us all about the peacock and his harem. Lucky guy. It was cooler tonight so a fire was needed. We snuggled around the flame with our brie and crackers and bottles of beer. Patchy returned too. I knew she couldn’t stay away for long!

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On our last full day we visited Slapton and Start Point. There’s a wonderful café/ B&B there that does the most amazing food. We had a Devon Cream tea before climbing up the steps to the coastal path and clambering over the rocks back to the car. We could’ve stayed longer, paddled in the sea even, but Nige was hankering for Dartmouth and who am I to disagree. My feet wanted to mind you, categorically deciding not to be picked up too high, only shuffling through the hilly streets of Dartmouth to the Seven Stars pub for fish and chips and a pint of ale. They were so relieved when we stopped at the park and stretched out on a bench for half an hour or so. Dartmouth is such a picturesque harbour town, with the steam train winding it’s way through the landscape and the steam ship ferrying people from one place to another. We left there, knowing that a return visit is required to explore further, especially the Agatha Christie tour. In fact, there seems to be a lot to do and see in Dartmouth and there’s a wonderful energy there that positively encourages us to stay there on our next visit.

Back at Pippin and a very quiet evening planned. Of course we spent most of it in the hot tub, taking in, for the last time, the evening view of the orchard and our tiny wagon. The fire was still ablaze, Patchy washing herself beside its warmth and the peahens bravely picking their way through the grass. Idyllic, for sure and a tough ask to give up so soon. 

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On the morning of our departure we awoke to Patchy on the steps and the elusive peacock waiting for breakfast. It wasn’t a luxurious affair but he seemed content with scrunched up cereal bars and pastry crumbs. Patchy took herself into Pippin and as the peahens arrived with their chicks she quickly leapt up to the bed.

Not everyone can say they had peacock for breakfast!

What a scene to leave, more perfect than the one we’d arrived to, if that was at all possible. Farewell Pippin, farewell Queenie, quirky shower, gorgeous hot tub. Farewell Patchy. Veni, vidi, vici. Yes we did!

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If you fancy this Canopy & Stars break, please click on the link Pippin, the Gypsy Caravan

©Lisa Lee 2014